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Servicio de obento estilo Convenience Store de Japón. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.

Un rincón japonés en Manhattan

A medida que uno recorre ciudades del mundo y escucha relatos de distintos viajeros, muchos coinciden en un aspecto interesante acerca de la cultura japonesa: vayas a donde vayas es probable que encuentres un pequeño universo japonés.

Podríamos analizar si estos lugares se generan por ciertas dificultades o nostalgias que los nipones llevan consigo cuando se radican lejos del país del sol naciente, o si simplemente se suma al conocido boom del orientalismo japonés en occidente. Pero lo que resulta claro, es que la ciudad de Nueva York no es la excepción.

A lo largo de este viaje buscamos aquellos pequeños rincones en donde Japón marca su huella en la ciudad y cuál es la recepción que los residentes tienen de la misma. Si bien en un rastreo previo al viaje sobre la existencia o no de un barrio japonés, descubrimos que no existía tal sitio, la calle St. Mark´s en el East Village parece a primera vista indicar lo contrario. Ubicada en una zona frecuentada por la gente joven para cenar o hacer salidas nocturnas, esta calle de apenas dos cuadras nos invita a adentrarnos en la gastronomía japonesa en sus diferentes propuestas. Destacamos aquí las tiendas “Otafuku medetai”, “Sobaya” y  “Panya” que, con nombres directamente en japonés, proponen disfrutar la comida japonesa en su versión tradicional y adaptada a la cultura de la ciudad.

“Sobaya” se caracteriza por sus fideos o “noodles”, específicamente udon y soba. La presentación de la comida es idéntica a la de Japón con el formato del “teishoku lunch”, con la entrada correspondiente, un plato principal de fideos a elección y algunos postres tradicionales como el helado de  mochi o los dulces tradicionales japoneses. En el local también pueden comprarse los fideos udon fabricados por el restorán, tomar clases de pastelería japonesa y asimismo se distribuyen publicaciones sobre la cultura asiática.

Tienda "Sobaya". Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Tienda «Sobaya». Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Menú almuerzo en Sobaya (US$22) Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Menú almuerzo en Sobaya (US$22) Foto: Delfina Virasoro.

Continuando nuestro recorrido por esta calle encontramos locales que ofrecen comida fusión. Nos llamó la atención el local “Yone Kichi Rice Burger” que combina el gusto de los norteamericanos por las hamburguesas con la comida japonesa. Se trata de una propuesta de menú de hamburguesas de arroz con guarniciones tales como sopa miso y ensaladas con ingredientes orientales.

En el restorán “Otafuku medetai” la propuesta se centra en las comidas “yaki” como se aprecia inmediatamente en su menú. Es famoso su takoyaki, pero también se puede comer okonomiyaki de la zona japonesa de Kansai e incluso se puede pasar a comer un postre o merienda con dulces, como el famoso taiyaki.

En la esquina donde concluye esta cuadra encontramos la panadería “Panya” donde los tradicionales bagels que se encuentran en las panaderías newyorkinas son reemplazados por algunos postres japoneses como el “shuukurimu”, “roll cake” y otras delicias. También hay un servicio de preparación de obento estilo “konbini” y en las góndolas encontramos onigiri de al menos tres sabores diferentes.

Pero la zona que aparentaba ser el barrio japonés no terminaba aún. Doblando a la derecha en la primera cuadra paralela a la misma, encontramos negocios que podrían aparecer en plena ciudad de Tokio, como tiendas de manga y cómics japoneses, locales de karaoke box e incluso una tienda de ropa que combinaba los estilos del punk y el estilo Harajuku. Tal y como nos comentó la encargada del local Sobaya, a lo largo de la calle St Mark´s y sus alrededores no encontramos  japoneses nativos o descendientes viviendo en Estados Unidos, sino con extranjeros o locales recorriendo sus tiendas con naturalidad.

Menú de comida fusión en "Yone Kichi Rice Burger". Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Menú de comida fusión en «Yone Kichi Rice Burger». Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Panadería Panya. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Panadería Panya. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.

La Biblioteca Pública de Nueva York es un conocido punto turístico para cualquiera que visite la ciudad junto con la estación Grand Central y la pista de patinaje sobre hielo de Bryant Park. Alrededor se encuentran locales de famosas marcas como Zara, Uniqlo y el Chrysler Building. Pero en esta ocasión nos dirigimos aquí para adentrarnos en la famosa librería japonesa “Kinokuniya”. Si bien en la planta baja podemos encontrar todo tipo de libros en idioma inglés, de los más variados temas, es en el siguiente piso donde se encuentra el rincón japonés que estábamos buscando. Al igual que en la mayoría de los países del mundo, el manga y el anime japonés son también muy populares en Estados Unidos. En este segundo piso de la tienda podemos encontrar una gran variedad de cómics japoneses, con el agregado de que podemos comprarlos en los ambos idiomas.

También nos encontramos con viejos conocidos de las famosas películas de Hayao Miyazaki y Studio Ghibli, ya que se vende el merchandising de sus películas, desde peluches hasta carteras, bolsos, straps y accesorios diferentes. Las películas del estudio parecieran ser famosas también en Nueva York, ya que caminando por las cercanías del barrio mencionado anteriormente, encontramos de casualidad un complejo dedicado al “cine arte”, donde la última película del estudio estaba siendo exhibida.

Supermercado asiático “Sunrise Market”. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Supermercado asiático “Sunrise Market”. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.

Terminamos este viaje volviendo al inicio y en St Mark´s encontramos lo que nos pareció que podría ser el indicio de una colectividad  japonesa cuando ingresamos en el supermercado asiático “Sunrise Market”. En este supermercado se pueden adquirir la mayoría de los ingredientes para preparar lo que se denomina en japonés “katei ryoori” o comida hogareña japonesa. Desde una amplia variedad de salsas (soja, teriyaki, tonkatsu)  hasta  productos de limpieza y belleza de marcas como “Shiseido” o “Bioré” pueden ser adquiridos en este pequeño local que se encuentra subiendo un ascensor en el segundo piso de lo que aparenta ser un edificio común. Productos como barbijos  o “kairo” (adherentes que dan calor en época de invierno) pueden ser adquiridos en la caja donde atienden japoneses.

Cartelera de avisos para la comunidad en el Sunrise Market. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.
Cartelera de avisos para la comunidad en el Sunrise Market. Foto: Delfina Virasoro.

Antes de salir de la tienda, nos encontramos con una cartelera en donde se anuncian propuestas de trabajo e incluso algunos pequeños shows o espectáculos que los miembros de una posible colectividad ofrecen a sus conocidos que residen en algún lugar de la gran Manhattan. Podemos asegurar como suponíamos al principio, que en la ciudad de Nueva York también existe un pequeño Japón para todo aquel que quiera refugiarse en un rincón de esta cultura.

Nota y fotos por Delfina Virasoro.

Acerca de Delfina Virasoro

Delfina María Virasoro estudió Cs. De la Comunicación en la Universidad de Buenos Aires y ejerce como profesora de idioma japonés desde 2008 en establecimientos educativos de la colectividad japonesa en Buenos Aires. Se formó tanto en Japón como en Argentina en el idioma, trabajó como traductora de bandas japonesas en la escena local y en radio sobre cultura japonesa durante 4 años.

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